Nem nuong belongs to Ninh Hoa, about 30 km from Nha Trang, though it now stands for the whole region. Pork is pounded until smooth and springy, moulded around a skewer and grilled over charcoal until the edges char while the inside stays juicy.
The assembly is what makes it: lay out a sheet of rice paper, add herbs, cucumber, shredded green mango and a piece of crisp fried cracker, set the pork on top and roll. Dip in a thick sauce of fermented soybean and pork liver, scattered with peanuts.
That fried cracker is easy to overlook and impossible to do without — it supplies the crunch between soft herbs and grilled meat.